Seed Saving can become a very addicting hobby.
It is also a way to insure seed quality and purity if done properly.
You can’t or wouldn’t want
to save seeds from hybrids, or F1 hybrids.
They would not grow true to type, (the original plant). If you plan
on saving the seeds just be sure not to buy those kinds of plants or
seeds. Seed catalogs label their seeds but some packs I have bought in
stores
don’t. Also if you want totally organic you have to start with
organic seeds or plants.
Heirlooms are varieties that have been passed down
for many, many years, they are what our ancestors grew.
In short that
means they still have all the vitamins, minerals and flavor
they should have and have not been altered. They could
be grown to tolerate different climates and be able to have
a higher tolerance to disease and conditions naturally over
time.
I grow mostly all heirloom varieties. They are becoming more popular
now, but are still hard to find. There are a few online
companies I order from and will be selling my own. I could never have all the variety they sell
just a few of my favorites.
Big companies that sell genetically modified (GMO’s) seeds are
mass producing and the pure varieties are becoming scarce.
Plus, you can’t save there seeds,
they usually won’t grow true to type that is what they want so we buy more. The
less we support that, the
more we are helping keep our varieties from becoming extinct.
Cross pollination is another thing to avoid when planning to save
your seed. Hot peppers cross with bell peppers, red tomatoes
with yellow, etc. There are isolation distances and methods to
avoid that. The
Seed to Seed
book goes into great detail and explains all the how and whys of it
all. Many
home gardeners don’t have the space for miles of isolation that is
usually called for.
In that case there bagging and caging techniques, or just don’t grow
things that will cross. Again that is when I refer to Seed to Seed. I have raised beds in my yard and I isolate my best plants
in my screen enclosure so I can save those seeds.
Some seeds are easy to harvest, others are quite a process and
require a lot of technique and time.
The plants used for saving seeds should be the best of the best.
They must be grown to full maturity usually ripe past the edible
stage to insure the seeds are fully mature.
There are basically two methods for cleaning the seeds after
harvesting.
Wet processing is for seeds that you harvest wet and they
need to washed clean before drying.
Tomatoes, cucumbers and
seeds that are encased in a jelly like sack require a fermentation process. For that we harvest the
over ripe fruit scoop or squeeze the
seeds and pulp into a bowl add a little water, stir and set in a
warm place (not in direct sunlight) to allow a layer of fungus to form over the surface. You will want to cover with plastic wrap. It will smell very bad so
remember that and don’t spill it!
Check daily as soon as the fungus forms they are ready. If
you wait to long they will start to germinate.
Then rinse through a strainer till clean and dry the bottom of
the strainer and lay out to dry on glass dish or something that they won’t stick to. Once you can bend the seeds and
they break they are ready for airtight
storage.
Dry processing is for plants that produce seeds in pods, husks or
umbrels.
Such as beans, peas, carrots, most herbs and peppers.
These are usually easily harvested. Collect the seeds by cutting off umbrels or opening the pods remove
outer layers if applicable and lay out to dry. When fully dry store in air tight container.
After you have done all that you should do a germination test
to
be sure you harvested successfully.
To do this, simply spray a heavy paper towel with warm water.
Lay the moist towel on a plate for easier handling and place 10-100 seeds single layer on the towel. Cover
with another moist towel and loosely roll it up and put in bread sack with holes. Check daily and
spray with water to keep moist. Too wet and they will mold. Keep them as sterile as possible and in
a warm place but not in the direct sun.
Check for specific germination temperatures for accuracy.
Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days some may take up to 28 days.
(Check for the specific days to germinate).
Count each seed that sprouts after 1 week then next and document.
After allotted time, take last full count to figure % rate. Example,
75 out of 100=
75% germination rate! The higher the percentage, the better chance
of success for that crop. Fluctuations in temperature and
other factors could slow germination.
Florida
Backyard Vegetable Gardener 
